*links to articles full of misinformation look like this
I want to start by saying that one of my goals with my content in general is to create awareness and clarity around sustainability and product safety, removing the misinformation around it so consumers can buy better and brands can be inspired to actually do better, and not just greenwash or use fear to sell products. My favourite scientists regularly share detailed examples of these subjects and I hope this newsletter can be a more simple translation of the science they are referencing.
I’m currently too annoyed by all the misinformation around sunscreen that I see popping up to address them in detail at the moment. It really feels like swimming against the current and I’m tired, overheated, you name it.
A little tip on how to spot misinformation on social media: are they using sensationalist and polarising language? Red flag. Do you experience discomfort and fear while viewing the content? Red flag. Scientific beauty facts are nuanced, and often a little boring!
Anyways. I'd rather lift the mood than spiral together so let me hand you some truthful and useful insights annnnd my summer skincare favourites!
Before I share my go-to products, let's set the record straight
A unicorn is more likely to exist than a natural sunscreen and unfortunately, "natural" doesn’t necessarily mean sustainable, or better for the environment or our health. Ugh, I WISH it was that simple! “Natural" is a bit of a chameleon term, easily adapted by marketing maestros, plus the term has no legal backing. A deep dive is underway ‘cause in order to move to a more sustainable future, we definitely need more clarity on this.
Here's what we do know: UVB rays can turn your skin a lobster red and possibly lead to cancer, while UVA rays are like fast-forward buttons for skin aging. A good broad spectrum sunscreen is your shield from these unwelcome effects, if used right.
It’s best to use sunscreen on your face, neck and hands every day, all year round and reapply several times a day. But during summer, the UV index is likely higher and using SPF the right way becomes more important. Also, life is sticky and sweaty during summer. So it's even more important to buy a nice smooth texture that you LOVE, and don’t hate to reapply and layer.
You might be tempted to reach for SPF face mists and sticks, but they're not quite the sun-shielding superheroes we wish they were. Unless you’re ready to generously apply and spread them with your fingers, their protection might fall short of what’s promised on their packaging. I use them solely as re-application tools and never as standalone products.
Your application method is everything
How much sunscreen should you slather on to get the promised number of SPF? Rule of thumb (but please don’t use your thumb!): Two fingers for just your face, and three or four fingers for face, neck, and ears. And one teaspoon per body part. That's right, quite a lot! This is why I lean towards modern 'chemical' (officially called 'organic') filters - they leave no white cast, are less thick and sticky in general and don't make my skin look like I've seen a ghost. They have a little bit of a bad rep because of the power of misinformation.
Only mineral sunscreens leave a white cast. Despite popular belief, mineral sunscreen is not “natural”, it is as synthetic as “chemical” sunscreen(I know, confusing!). And it always contains only max. 2 filters: zinc-oxide and titanium dioxide. I’m not a huge fan of these filters because they dry out my skin and they are simply not inclusive to all skin colours. Brands owned by white people will tell you that their mineral sunscreen doesn’t leave a white cast. I know this might be controversial but I would argue that this is simply untrue in almost all cases. I do acknowledge that experiencing white cast can be subjective, and this is exactly why brands that sell those sunscreens keep on telling you they don’t leave a white cast. They can hide behind their opinions. Don’t buy into it.
Now, I prefer the "modern" chemical filters mainly because they don’t make my eyes feel like I've chopped onions. Eye stinging can be personal, but generally speaking & and in my experience, formulas containing older chemical filters can cause this discomfort more often. In my product recommendations, I will only share formulas with older chemical filters if they have special anti-eye stinging technologies or if they don’t sting mine.
SPF’S I’M CRAZY ABOUT
Here are my top-tier, inclusively-tinted, totally safe sun protection favourites that have passed the test for a diverse range of skin types:
FACE: ALL SKIN TYPES
Benton Air Fit UV Defense SPF50 is my absolute fave. It’s lightweight, budget-friendly, and soothing for rosacea-prone skin like mine. It's been tried and tested by various independent labs in different countries, all showing excellent results!
SENSITIVE SKIN + DRY SKIN
La Roche-Posay - Toleriane Rosaliac AR SPF30: This soothing moisturiser with microbiome technology is a God-send for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin.
OILY, BLEMISH PRONE SKIN
Cantabria Labs, Heliocare 360 Gel oil-free dry touch SPF50 PA++++: This antioxidant-packed formula provides an impressive matte finish, ideal for oily skin. I did have a problem layering after the third re-application while wearing make-up. Here’s an alternative if you don’t mind a flowery scent:
La Roche-Posay Antheltios UV mune 400 oil control SPF50, very nice matte finish and sebum reducing technology in the formula while keeping the microbiome nice and balanced.
EYE LID SPF
No one is talking about this(!)
Call me crazy but I am a firm believer in using an SPF stick around my eyes on a daily basis to freeze the time around my gaze. There is not much you can do once your delicate eyelids have lost elasticity and I’d rather have no eye surgery or at least not one anytime soon! I have a full eye routine that I cherish as the most important part of my skin routine. This is a tease, since this email is already way longer than I wanted, I won't share the full routine details right now. But I promise I will next time.
The most important product in my eye routine is this stick. I swipe at least 4 times per eyelid and try to reapply every 2-3 hours.
La Roche-Posay Anthelios 50+ Stick for Sun sensitive areas. This one contains some “older” chemical filters as well but does not sting my eyes at all! (it’s possible!)
BODY
La Roche-Posay - Anthelios Dermo-Pediatrics Lait Hydratant Ultra Protection SPF50+ PA++++: This water-resistant, fragrance-free formula designed for sensitive skin and kiddo’s is my go-to. Very elegant, non sticky formula. Not thick at all.
Avène SPF50 Spray for sensitive skin: It’s simple to apply, but there's a slight white cast after several reapplications due to a little bit of titanium dioxide in the mix of several filters. Still, it’s a repeat purchase for me.
BEAUTY TIPS
Currently, I’m using my skincare more frequently than I’m checking my emails - because they’re refrigerated and perfect for cooling off in this heat! it feels soooo nice to apply (* crying in Centella asiatica *)
Cicaplast Gel B5 this lightweight formula repairs the skin barrier and feels very calming for UV exposed skin, Benton Air Fit SPF50+ again, Beauty of Joseon SPF stick, Bunny line smoother has this metal rolling application ball that feels amazing when cold. A true new holy grail that smoothes fine lines temporarily until you wash the product off, Laneige Cream Skin SO GOOD, still in love!, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream, a forever favourite from Korea that is officially dubbed as after sun care, meaning they did clinical studies on that claim with positive results. Calming and cooling as promised.
And lastly, here's the Holy Grail for parched lips - the NEEDLY Sleeping Lip Mask. Fermented oils and ceramides repair the lip barrier. It’s so good, I use it as often as lip gloss.
Thank you for being on this journey with me while I’m exploring the dark shadows and glittering lights of the beauty industry and finding my voice in these first few newsletters. I am very open to receiving feedback, this is a conversation, not a one way street. Please feel free to DM me at SoftGlow or comment on this post! <3
Here's a little sneak peek into my upcoming newsletters, where we'll delve into:
1. My Skincare Odyssey: Unravel my journey from battling rosacea and acne as a model to being thrust into the whirlwind world of beauty & tech start ups as a lead product developer for a Beiersdorff-owned brand. A peek into the experience of the highs of striking gold at beauty awards, to the rollercoaster ride of company buyouts.
2. Simplified skincare: From 15 steps to skipcare & from being diagnosed with PTSD and OCD to being officially declared a healthy human being (yay!)
3. Unmasking Greenwashing: Uncover the truth together behind greenwashing, the term natural and false promises in the beauty industry, and why it's a problem that needs addressing.
4. Fun sunscreen confusion: Sunscreen without perfume, perfume containing sunscreen and perfume that smells like sunscreen.
5. Oil universe: A deep dive into the role and enjoyment of naturally derived oils in skincare.
6. Decoding Ingredients: Unwrap the complexities of the ingredient list and the controversy surrounding it with me.
Rest assured, each issue will be enriched with tried-and-tested product recommendations to help you navigate the expansive world of cosmetics.
Let me know which subject you’d like to read first!
xoxo