Easing into Fall
I created a skin coach GPT & am prepping for clinical fall treatments!
I’ll share the tea on my skincare horror stories at the end of this letter, we go over newly discovered holy grails, clinical skin treatments I’ve got planned, everything I’ve done to my face and how to treat milia<3
Fall is upon us, the season of vintage cashmere sweaters, scented candles that smell like burnt wood and the quest for the perfect autumn perfume. (I’ll have to tell you one day how I used to treat perfume like a secret diary in high school - each scent a memory capsule, sealed and untouched for a decade. For someone too terrified to write her secrets in an actual journal, too worried someone might read it, scent was my solution.)
In terms of skincare, this shift in weather is when I focus on deep hydration and nurturing my skin barrier. It’s also the time to research laser treatments and -some years- to bump up my retinoids, cause they actually thicken the skin barrier and make skin more healthy overall (nope they’re not scary despite what you’ve heard).
Makeup
Makeup-wise, fall means creating vision boards, mapping out colours, shapes, textures, skin finishes, inspiration images ripped out of magazines and listing out eye palettes I want to try.
This past summer I went makeup-free most days, except for a swipe of Dior Forever Glow Star Filter or Charlotte Tilbury’s Flawless Filter, paired with Hourglass’s incredible(!) high coverage concealer called Vanish. This season this will be my base but I will get more creative with colour. I’m still not sure which one of the 2 skin filters I prefer and it will depend on your personal preferences which one will be better for you, let me explain the difference:
I love the light floral scent and pump of Star Filter, compared to the unscented Flawless Filter, which gets a slightly unpleasant smell after a few weeks (I have a very sensitive nose though). The Flawless Filter’s brush applicator isn't as hygienic, as it can introduce bacteria into the bottle. While the preservatives seem to do their job and my skin has never reacted badly, the Star Filter feels like a more reassuring option for those concerned about cleanliness. Both have a similarly radiant skin finish and are true staples in my make up routine.
To apply Hourglass’ concealer, I love using Pat McGrath’s concealer brush (designed to mimic her skilful fingers), TRULY a game-changer. With just a tiny bit of product applied around the eyes, nose, and chin, you can blur imperfections without needing full foundation. This gets me radiant, even-toned skin without looking overdone. I’m all for that slightly ethereal, pale look, but if you crave a bit more or a healthy look, just add blush or let your cheekbones breathe.
Recently, I’ve fallen HARD for Byredo’s eye palettes. I love mineralscapes, it’s just the perfect combination of glitter and rich autumn shades. And I know some of you swear by Urban Decay’s iconic eyeshadow primer (I used to, too). But I was in Ibiza 2 weeks ago and I forgot to pack mine, which led me to discovering some great alternatives (that I now prefer!) to make those colours pop and last.
For daytime (cause you need SPF alwaysss) La Roche-Posay’s SPF50+ Sensitive Zone Stick worked wonders as a primer. You can layer it with a touch of NARS concealer (its satin finish is better suited for a day look than the fuller coverage of Hourglass), then apply eyeshadow as usual. Especially for those of us in our 30s, a creamy base helps avoid that dreaded powder-induced dry wrinkle accentuation. Plus this stick has SPF that doesn’t sting the eyes and we love a multitasking queen.
For a night look, L:a. Bruket’s SOS balm is your secret weapon. I use it on my lips, dry spots, and even hands. Apply it before your eyeshadow, then finish with setting everything with Milk Makeup’s setting spray. This setting spray is miles ahead of the popular Charlotte Tilbury’s, thanks to its nozzle: it produces a fine, even mist that leaves no corner unsprayed.
Clinical skin treatments I’m planning or fall + winter
I have to be honest, part of me feels unnecessarily proud when I think about the fact that my healthy looking skin comes for the most part just from skincare (ok healthy living, mindset and genes play a role), and not clinical treatments or facials that fixed my skin from being dull, hypersensitive, dehydrated and full of blemishes. I will always choose a consistent optimal skincare routine over a monthly facial with an inconsistent skincare routine and bad products (= me years ago). I just wholeheartedly believe in the magic of skincare products.
Sooo I've been holding off, but the time has come for me to dive into the more advanced topics. After doing extensive research on minimally to semi-invasive clinical treatments and deep dives into the details, here's my current personal viewpoint in summary:
I approach heat-based facial devices with caution because they can potentially melt fat in the face, leading to an aged appearance. And no one really tells you that. If used improperly, these devices can cause unwanted side effects and regulations on who can operate them vary significantly by country.
The outcome also depends on the specific device and temperature settings, as not all devices stimulate the same type of collagen or at the right depth. Devices like Ulthera, Morpheus8, Sofwave, Thermage, HIFU and others are often marketed with ease, downplaying the risks, but it’s essential to understand that they do carry potential dangers, including fat loss, burns, or skin laxity, particularly when handled by unqualified providers.
PRP microneedling (or the vampire facial) is great but there are newer and better biostimulators on the market these days like PRF, polynucleotides, exosomes and stem cells. Exosomes and stem cells seem very promising but since they’re so new, they need some more research on efficacy (not on safety) in my opinion.
Although I have experimented with natural looking, low molecular weight filler in my lips after gaining weight and needing a better ratio, I personally am not a fan of fillers for my face. But I totally understand if people go for it, this is just a personal opinion regarding my own face. I would much rather go for biostimulators.
Maybe it’s just very anecdotal but I don’t love that more stories seem to surface of filler in the face actually never really dissolving, absorbing water through the years, leading to pillow face. And when you want it to all get dissolved by a doctor, there is a risk of dissolving your own natural hyaluronic acid as well, possibly leading to a deflated face that might need a facelift in order to get to the state your face might have been in in the scenario of never having used (lots of) filler in the first place.
It is rumoured that this happened to Kylie Jenner and that she allegedly had her facelift less than a year ago (she isn’t even in her 30s yet). I know there are many different types of them but I don’t love how doctors so easily recommend fillers as if there are zero risks involved, I think that’s why I’m a bit skeptical about them.
I would personally stay far away from Sculptra since it doesn’t seem to regenerate the right type of collagen. I’ve seen several facelift surgery video’s now where they cut the face open and you can clearly see the damage done by Sculptra. Of course in every case the dose makes the poison and these patients used a lot, for many years. So keep that in mind and make up your own pov :)
Regarding clinical treatments, I am most excited about the recent developments in regenerative aesthetics because those focus on your own skin naturally enhancing itself after a trip to the skin clinic! Polynucleotide injections have been on my list for a while. This is the salmon sperm DNA that has been big in Korea for a while: its a skincare treatment that uses DNA and RNA fragments to repair and rejuvenate skin at the cellular level. By stimulating tissue regeneration, they improve hydration, elasticity, and collagen production.
Unlike fillers or Botox, these injections focus on healing and revitalising skin, making them effective for enhancing texture and reducing fine lines. It's a minimally invasive procedure performed by professionals to achieve long-lasting skin improvement, but most people do it every 3-6 months to keep results.
Another treatment I want to plan in soon is PRF (Platelet-Rich Fibrin) micro needling: a treatment that combines micro needling with the healing properties of your own blood to enhance skin regeneration. In this procedure a small amount of your blood is drawn processed to extract PRF - rich in growth factors and healing cells - then applied to the skin while micro needling creates tiny channels.
The combination promotes collagen production, improves skin texture, and helps reduce fine lines, acne scars, and other imperfections. It’s the younger, more effective sister of PRP (vampire facial). And it's natural in the sense that the product is extracted from your own body. We love a minimally invasive treatment that accelerates skin healing, quite literally transforming us to someone with the best version of our skin!
I think it is important to share for transparency that I have been getting baby botox (inconsistently, on purpose for a more natural look) since a few years. I say baby botox since it’s called like that: my units are very low and I always make sure the doctor knows my preference: I still want to be able to move my face whenever I want.
I’m also planning to get laser treatment for hyperpigmentation for the first time in my life. I’ve gotten laser for couperose before but that’s it regarding lasers. I’ll have to see some professionals but would probably go for Pico laser or Q switch.
Products I’m excited about this month
Eye cream: BYOMA De-Puff + Brighten Eye Gel with Tri-ceramide complex, triple hyaluronic acid and vitamin C. Very light weight, does not pill.
Perfume: I’m constantly searching for the perfect "burned laundry" scent. For now that means I buy two perfumes: one soapy and one smoky, and layer them. One day I’ll create this dream combination in a single bottle and will tell you about it by then. My signature blend is Patchouli oil from Le Labo(discontinued I think?), layered with either Juliette Has a Gun’s White Spirit, Intimissimi No1, or Le Labo Lavende 31
Foundation: Haus Labs Skin Tech foundation is my new go-to. It’s incredibly skin-like and natural, but still gives you just the right amount of semi-coverage. It’s one of those rare finds that perfects your complexion without looking like you’re wearing foundation.
Body cream: I recently discovered Loewe’s Oregano body lotion, and I’m obsessed. Loewe has proven that even brands known more for their aesthetic can deliver high-quality formulas. Most luxurious body creams (looking at you, Aesop) can smell great but feel heavy or suffocating, but this one is different. It absorbs beautifully, has a modern texture, feels both thick and lightweight, and smells incredible.
Another amazing body cream I got gifted and absolutely adored is the one from Manasi7. You probably know that I love to romanticise and ritualise my life as much as possible, and the fresh natural-floral scent in combination with the rich (but not suffocating the pores!) texture makes this product perfect for a well deserved me-moment.
Vitamin C serum: I wanted to love Dr. Dennis Gross’s Vitamin C serum so badly. And I still love it for its efficacy BUT - we know that a water based version with ascorbic acid (=the OG vit C ingredient, she can be a bit unstable but has the most evidence of efficacy) can smell like hot dog water lmao, but this one smells like a true eau de parfum version of hot dog water: even more concentrated than other formula’s using ascorbic acid in stead of a derivative. So for this fall I returned to a classic: Sunday Riley’s CEO glow vitamin C serum. So good. Mildly scented with orange peel, perfectly fine for my sensitive skin.
A quick update on my skin coach GPT
I trained a language model with the values and goals of Soft Glow and it s been soooo much fun. It’s being beta tested by some people right now and I can’t wait to hear about their experience. With their feedback I’ll build an API cause an API has a better memory for my instructions but also for input of the users.
This is so exciting because I think it can really help people navigate the overwhelming world of beauty products and treatments, bypassing marketing lies and getting into the effective and personalised realm of beauty <3
The key to battling Milia
Now, I don’t know if any of you are prone to milia, but I sure am. Those stubborn, tiny white cysts (without inflammation), caused when keratin gets trapped under the skin, are my personal nemesis. For years, I was told by aestheticians that dehydration was to blame (lmao they told me to drink more water, which is not a thing in skincare btw unless you are severely dehydrated but in that case you really have some other priorities to attend to other than your skin) which always made me laugh, given that I was following an intense 15-step K-beauty routine at the time. My skin was practically drowning in hydration.
The key to minimising milia is avoiding thick, occlusive products. I still layer my toners, essences, and ampoules, but I steer clear of heavy moisturisers. And don’t even get me started on slugging - that viral trend where you coat your face in Vaseline to lock in moisture. It’s a milia-triggering disaster for someone like me. Instead, I opt for lightweight hydration through sheet masks and toners, skipping moisturisers entirely during the day in favour of a thin, Korean SPF. Regular exfoliation and retinoids round out my milia vanishing routine, and it’s been a relief to stop relying on monthly extraction facials.
A few skincare horror stories (because why not)
The most expensive facial treatment of my life
Sooo, speaking of beauty professionals, this had me thinking about some of my worst experiences with them. These moments, ingrained into my SOUL, are why I dove headfirst into skincare, deeply determined to separate fact from fiction. And are also the reason I postponed clinical treatments for a hot minute.
Let’s start with the time a skin therapist promised me baby skin within two days, right before I moved to Paris. I had 2 big work opportunities: I was in the running with (in both instances) just 1 other opponent for two major global beauty campaigns: Garnier and John Frieda. I asked her for the best treatment to get my skin camera-ready, explaining that I had very sensitive skin and needed to look flawless for my Paris adventure In A Few Days. It was a well reviewed skin clinic where they also did surgery. “I am in the hands of skilful professionals”, I thought, so I fully trusted them.
She decided the best treatment for me was to burn my skin off with an aggressive AHA + fruit enzyme facial, I had never done anything like it before at the time. What should have been mild peeling turned into full-blown inflammation, lasting for 2 weeks - yellow goo, pain, and a face that looked anything but ready for Paris. I lost both campaigns and was too much of a people pleaser at the time to hold the clinic accountable. I did email them 3 times though, (way too kind emails, including photo’s) and they never replied. Lessons learned.
The moldy beauty blender
I was working with an e-commerce client I’d been with for years. Same team, same faces. This particular makeup artist always arrived with a single beauty blender - the egg-shaped sponge that should be used damp. She worked with several models a day, five days a week, and only used one beauty blender.
Aside from the fact that you should NEVER use the same brush or sponge on different skins without fully disinfecting your tool between every touch of skin (transfer of another persons’ microbiome can be detrimental for your skin, triggering all kinds of skin conditions) - she used a plastic ziplock to store the beauty blender in after washing after a day of work.
You can imagine what happens when you store a damp beauty blender in a plastic ziplock bag without disinfecting it properly. Yup, it gets moldy.
One day, she pulled out her trusty beauty blender, and I noticed black spots on it. My skin crawled. But, as a model, you’re conditioned not to make a fuss. Appalled, I found the courage to say, “What’s that black stuff on the beauty blender?”
She didn’t even flinch. “Oh, that always happens. Nothing to worry about.”
I felt a knot of discomfort. “It looks like mold…”
“Well, it’s not. You don’t need to worry. This is the only tool I have to apply the foundation properly. Do you want me to ruin the makeup, or let me do my job?”
I stayed silent. What was I supposed to do? The fear of disrupting the process, of being difficult, kept me from speaking up further. The next week, she showed up again, proudly brandishing a new beauty blender. “It’s black now,” she said, laughing, “so you won’t notice the issue anymore.”
It took me years to realise the state of my skin wasn’t entirely my fault. Sure, the fashion industry is a wild ride, but sometimes it’s the everyday negligence of others that pushes your skin into chaos.
That’s the tea for now!
As always, let me know your thoughts. I love hearing from you! <3 <3 <3
xoxo
Soft Glow
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